Nissan Skyline GT-R: R32 vs R33 vs R34 — Which Should You Buy?

The GT-R Dilemma: Which Legend Should You Choose?

The Nissan Skyline GT-R isn't just a car — it's a legend. From dominating Group A racing in the R32 to stealing the spotlight in Fast & Furious with the R34, each generation of GT-R has earned its place in automotive history. But if you're looking to buy one in 2025, which generation offers the best balance of performance, value, and ownership experience?

In this comprehensive comparison, we pit the R32, R33, and R34 GT-R against each other across every category that matters: performance, handling, modification potential, reliability, running costs, and current market pricing. Whether you're a first-time buyer or upgrading from a GTS-t, we'll help you choose the right GT-R for your needs and budget.

What You'll Learn:

• Performance specifications and real-world differences
• Current market prices and import costs
• Modification potential for each generation
• Common problems and reliability considerations
• Running costs and ownership experience
• Which GT-R suits different types of buyers

Quick Specifications Comparison

Nissan Skyline GT-R32: From Street Car to Show-Stopping Masterpiece

Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R (1989-1994): "Godzilla"

The R32 GT-R is the car that started it all. Banned from Group A racing after dominating for four straight years, nicknamed "Godzilla" by the Australian press, this is the GT-R that proved Nissan could build a world-beating supercar. It's raw, mechanical, and has a racing pedigree that the later generations can't match.

What Makes It Special

The R32 is the purest GT-R. It's the lightest (100kg less than the R33, 130kg less than the R34), which makes it feel more agile and responsive. The steering is more communicative, the chassis feedback is direct, and there's an analog quality to the driving experience that enthusiasts cherish.

It was the first production car with an electronically controlled AWD system (ATTESA E-TS) and four-wheel steering (HICAS), technology that was cutting-edge in 1989. The RB26DETT engine became legendary in this car, and the platform dominated motorsport for years.

Performance and Handling

Don't let the official 280ps figure fool you — the R32 made around 320 honest horsepower from the factory, thanks to Japan's "gentlemen's agreement" limiting advertised power. The 2.6-liter twin-turbo inline-six revs freely to 8,000rpm and loves to make power.

Handling is sharp and engaging. The lighter weight compared to later models means it changes direction more eagerly. The ATTESA AWD system is brilliant, sending power rearward until slip is detected, then engaging the front axle. It feels more rear-biased than later GT-Rs, which adds to the driving pleasure.

However, it's also the oldest. The suspension feels more dated compared to the R33/R34, and the brakes (even Brembo-equipped V-Spec models) aren't as confidence-inspiring as modern standards. But upgrade the brakes and suspension, and you have a phenomenal track weapon.

Modification Potential

The R32's RB26 responds fantastically to modifications:

Stage 1 (£3-5k): Exhaust, intake, boost controller, ECU tune = 400-450bhp

Stage 2 (£8-12k): Larger turbos, injectors, fuel pump, intercooler = 550-650bhp

Stage 3 (£15k+): Built engine, big singles, full supporting mods = 800-1000bhp+

The aftermarket is enormous. Every part imaginable is available.

Common Problems

Watch for:

• Rust — biggest killer of R32s. Check rear quarters, floor pans, sills
• Turbo wear at high mileage (150k+ km)
• HICAS failure (many delete it anyway)
• Weak 5-speed gearbox (upgrade to 6-speed recommended)
• Worn suspension bushings (car is 30+ years old)
• Oil consumption (RB26 characteristic)
• Alternator failure
• Leaking valve cover gaskets

Current Market and Pricing

2025 pricing (UK landed):

• Standard R32 GT-R: £45,000 - £60,000
• V-Spec / V-Spec II: £55,000 - £75,000
• Nismo models: £70,000 - £100,000+
• N1 / Rare variants: £80,000+

Prices have stabilized after the COVID surge but remain high. The R32 is now considered a future classic and an appreciating asset. Well-maintained examples are increasingly rare.

Who Should Buy the R32?

The R32 is for:

• Purists who want the most analog GT-R experience
• Track day enthusiasts (lightest = fastest)
• Collectors (most historically significant)
• Those who value racing heritage
• People comfortable with older car ownership

Avoid if:

• You want modern creature comforts
• You're not prepared for rust inspection/prevention
• Budget is tight (premium pricing + old car costs)

Bob Morgan - Nissan Skyline R33 GTST

Nissan Skyline R33 GT-R (1995-1998): "The Middle Child"

The R33 GT-R is the unloved middle child — overshadowed by the R32's racing pedigree and the R34's movie fame. But this reputation is undeserved. The R33 is actually the best-handling GT-R of the three, offering a refined evolution of the R32 with improved everything... except public perception.

What Makes It Special

The R33 addressed many R32 shortcomings: longer wheelbase for better stability, improved ATTESA AWD system, upgraded brakes (standard Brembo on all models), better interior, and the addition of a 6-speed Getrag gearbox. It was also the first GT-R to officially lap the Nürburgring under 8 minutes — a milestone that proved its capabilities.

Nissan's engineers took their time with the R33, refining the chassis and suspension geometry. The result is a car that's more planted, more confidence-inspiring, and actually faster around a track than the R32 despite weighing more. Professional drivers consistently praise the R33's balance.

Performance and Handling

Same RB26DETT engine, same ~320hp real output, but with improved torque delivery and a much better gearbox. The 6-speed Getrag is stronger and has better ratios than the R32's 5-speed. The extra weight (100kg over R32) is noticeable in tight corners, but on faster roads and tracks, the R33's superior stability shines.

The ATTESA E-TS Pro system is more sophisticated, with better front/rear torque distribution. The active LSD is improved. The brakes are significantly better — Brembo 4-pots all around as standard. The suspension geometry is revised for better turn-in and less understeer.

Many track day regulars prefer the R33 to the R32. It's more forgiving at the limit, easier to drive fast, and the better brakes inspire more confidence. It may not have the raw feel of the R32, but it's the more complete package.

Modification Potential

Identical to R32 — same RB26, same modification path:

• Stage 1: 400-450bhp easily
• Stage 2: 550-650bhp reliable
• Stage 3: 800-1000bhp+ with built motor

Bonus: The 6-speed transmission is stronger and can handle more power stock. The better chassis and brakes mean you can safely use more power without as many supporting upgrades.

Common Problems

Watch for:

• Rust (especially rear subframe, floor, and arches)
• Turbo wear at high mileage
• Front wheel bearing wear
• Transmission bearing whine (known Getrag issue)
• HICAS pump failure
• Alternator issues
• Oil consumption
• Interior wear (these cars are daily driven in Japan)

Current Market and Pricing

2025 pricing (UK landed):

• Standard R33 GT-R: £30,000 - £40,000
• V-Spec: £35,000 - £48,000
• V-Spec N1 / Nismo 400R: £50,000 - £80,000
• Mine's / Nismo: £55,000+

The R33 represents the best value in the GT-R range. You get 90% of the performance and experience for 60% of the price of an R32. Prices are rising as buyers realize what great cars these are.

Who Should Buy the R33?

The R33 is for:

• Enthusiasts who prioritize driving dynamics over prestige
• Track day regulars (best chassis of the three)
• Value-conscious buyers (cheapest GT-R)
• Daily driver candidates (most refined)
• First-time GT-R buyers

Avoid if:

• Image matters more than substance
• You're buying as an investment (R32/R34 appreciate faster)
• You want the most iconic model

The Liberty Walk Skyline GTR34 : Owning My Dream Car

Nissan Skyline R34 GT-R (1999-2002): "The Icon"

The R34 GT-R is the most famous of the three, thanks to Gran Turismo, Fast & Furious, and being the final GT-R before the R35. It's the most technologically advanced, the most refined, and the most expensive. With only 11,578 units produced, it's also the rarest.

What Makes It Special

The R34 represents the pinnacle of the RB26 GT-R. Nissan threw everything at it: advanced MFD (Multi Function Display) showing real-time g-forces, boost, and temperatures; improved aerodynamics with front splitter and rear diffuser; stronger 6-speed Getrag gearbox; better ATTESA Pro II AWD; lightweight panels; and extensive use of aluminum.

This is the GT-R that came closest to being a true supercar. The V-Spec II Nür was capable of sub-8-minute Nürburgring laps in stock form. The Z-Tune (Nismo's ultimate R34) made 500ps and is now worth over £500,000.

Performance and Handling

Same RB26DETT again, but with improved intake and exhaust manifolds resulting in slightly more real-world power (~330hp). The stronger gearbox, better aerodynamics, and revised suspension geometry make it the most complete package.

It's the heaviest GT-R at 1,560kg, but you don't feel it. The advanced ATTESA system, active LSD, and sophisticated electronics make it feel lighter and more agile than the numbers suggest. It's the easiest GT-R to drive fast — the electronics do more of the work for you.

Some purists say the R34 is "too refined" and lacks the raw character of the R32. There's some truth to this — it feels more modern and less mechanical. But for outright performance and capability, it's the fastest GT-R.

Modification Potential

Identical RB26 modification path as R32/R33:

• Stage 1: 400-450bhp
• Stage 2: 550-650bhp
• Stage 3: 800-1000bhp+

The R34's stronger transmission and more sophisticated electronics make it the best platform for serious power. The improved aerodynamics also help at high speeds.

Common Problems

Watch for:

• Rust (particularly rear arches and undercarriage)
• MFD screen failure (expensive to replace)
• Transmission wear (still an issue despite improvements)
• Turbo wear
• Front wheel bearings
• Modified examples often thrashed
• Fake V-Spec badges/conversions (verify authenticity)
• Oil consumption

Current Market and Pricing

2025 pricing (UK landed):

• Standard R34 GT-R: £80,000 - £100,000
• V-Spec: £90,000 - £120,000
• V-Spec II: £100,000 - £140,000
• Nür / M-Spec: £120,000 - £180,000
• Z-Tune / Ultra-rare: £500,000+

The R34 is firmly in investment territory. Prices have climbed dramatically and show no signs of stopping. Clean, unmodified examples are increasingly rare and command massive premiums.

Who Should Buy the R34?

The R34 is for:

• Collectors and investors
• Those with substantial budgets
• Enthusiasts who want the most iconic GT-R
• People prioritizing resale value
• Those seeking the most technologically advanced RB26 GT-R

Avoid if:

• Budget is under £100k
• You want to heavily modify (appreciation potential lost)
• You prefer analog/mechanical feel to electronics
• You're seeking best value/performance per pound

Head-to-Head: Which Is Best For You?

Best for Track Days: R33 GT-R

The R33's superior chassis balance, better brakes, and stronger transmission make it the track weapon of choice. It's easier to drive at 9/10ths, more forgiving, and cheaper to run if you damage something. The R32 is close, but the R33 edges it with better stability and brakes.

Best Value: R33 GT-R

At £30-40k, the R33 offers incredible value. You get essentially the same performance as the other two, better handling than the R32, and modern conveniences like a 6-speed gearbox. It's the smart buyer's choice.

Best Investment: R34 GT-R

If appreciation potential matters, the R34 wins. With the lowest production numbers and highest desirability, clean R34s will continue climbing in value. The R32 is also appreciating, but the R34 is the blue-chip investment.

Most Fun to Drive: R32 GT-R

The raw, mechanical feel of the R32 makes it the most engaging. It demands more from the driver, communicates more through the controls, and feels more alive. If you prioritize driving feel over laptimes, choose the R32.

Best Daily Driver: R33 GT-R

The R33's refinement, better gearbox, improved reliability, and lower running costs make it the most practical daily. It's also worth noting that insurance is typically cheaper than R32/R34.

Most Collectible: R34 GT-R

Lowest production numbers, highest desirability, most iconic status. If collecting matters, the R34 is the one to own. Particularly V-Spec II or Nür models.

Best for Big Power: R34 GT-R

The stronger transmission, better electronics, and more sophisticated AWD system make the R34 the best platform for 700+ bhp builds. The chassis can handle big power better than the R32/R33.

Running Costs Comparison

Note: These are estimates for well-maintained examples. Neglected or modified cars can cost significantly more.

Buying Advice: What to Look For

Inspection Checklist (All Models)

Before buying ANY GT-R:

• ☐ Comprehensive history file with service records
• ☐ Rust inspection — particularly underneath, arches, and floor
• ☐ Compression test on all cylinders (should be even, 140-160psi)
• ☐ Oil consumption check (some is normal, excessive isn't)
• ☐ Turbo inspection for smoke and shaft play
• ☐ Transmission inspection — test all gears, check for grinds/whines
• ☐ ATTESA and HICAS functionality
• ☐ Brake condition — discs, pads, lines
• ☐ Suspension bushings and components
• ☐ Auction sheet verification (if imported)
• ☐ VIN verification against paperwork
• ☐ Genuine parts verification (watch for fake V-Spec badges)

Red Flags

Walk away if:

• No service history
• Extensive modifications with no documentation
• Evidence of accident damage
• Significant rust
• Engine oil consumption > 1L per 1000km
• Smoking turbos
• Transmission issues
• Suspiciously low price
• Seller reluctant to allow inspection
• VIN doesn't match paperwork

The Evolution of the Nissan Skyline: The Legend

Final Verdict: Which GT-R Should You Buy?

There's no wrong choice — each GT-R generation excels in different areas:

R32 GT-R

The purist's choice. Raw, mechanical, historically significant. Best for driving feel and motorsport heritage. Buy if you want the most analog GT-R experience and can afford the premium pricing.

R33 GT-R

The enthusiast's choice. Best handling chassis, great value, most practical. Buy if you prioritize actual driving dynamics over image, want the best track car, or need a daily-drivable GT-R on a budget.

R34 GT-R

The collector's choice. Most iconic, best technology, strongest investment. Buy if budget allows, you want the pinnacle of RB26 engineering, or investment potential matters.

Our recommendation for most buyers? The R33. It's underrated, underpriced, and arguably the best-driving GT-R. But if you're a purist, the R32 will speak to your soul. And if money's no object, the R34 is the ultimate.

Whichever you choose, buy the best example you can afford. All three are now appreciating assets that deserve proper care and maintenance. A well-maintained GT-R of any generation is a joy to own and will reward you with one of the best driving experiences available.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: Which GT-R is fastest?

Stock vs stock, the R34 is slightly faster due to improved aerodynamics and slightly more power. However, differences are minimal. Around a track, the R33 often posts faster lap times due to better chassis balance.

Q2: Are GT-Rs reliable daily drivers?

Yes, if properly maintained. The RB26 is robust and the cars were built to high standards. However, they're 20-30 years old now, so expect to replace wear items. Budget £3-5k per year for maintenance and you'll have few issues.

Q3: Can I modify a GT-R and maintain value?

Mild modifications won't hurt value (exhaust, intake, suspension). Extensive engine work, body modifications, or cutting the car will hurt resale, especially on R34s. Keep all stock parts if you modify.

Q4: Which has the cheapest insurance?

The R33 typically has the lowest insurance costs, followed by R32, then R34. Use specialist insurers like Greenlight, Adrian Flux, or A-Plan. Expect £700-1,800/year depending on age and location.

Q5: Are parts expensive?

Common service items and performance parts are reasonably priced due to huge aftermarket support. However, rare OEM parts (especially R34 electronics) can be extremely expensive. Join owner groups for parts sourcing advice.

Q6: Should I buy a V-Spec or standard model?

V-Spec models have better suspension, brakes, and lightweight panels. They're more collectable and hold value better. However, standard models are mechanically very similar and cost significantly less. For track use, buy standard and upgrade. For collecting, buy V-Spec.

Q7: Can I import any of these to the US yet?

In 2025, you can import R32s from any year (all are 25+ years old now). R33s from 1999 and earlier are eligible. R34s won't be eligible until 2024-2027 depending on year. Check the exact 25-year anniversary of your desired year.

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